Monday, 18 August 2014

MY TRIP TO MAJULI, the River Island

Majuli is the largest riverine island in the world. It was formed due to the course changes by the river Brahmaputra and its tributaries, mainly the Lohit. This island falls under the Jorhat district of Assam, India. It is about 237 kms. east of Guwahati, the state capital. Majuli is a civil sub-division of Jorhat district. Garmurh is the sub-divisional head-quarter of Majuli. Geographically, it is situated at 26025' and 27012' north latitude and 93039 and 94035' east longitude. It is reachable by many ghats with machine boat from both banks of the Brahmaputra.
Majuli is located about 20 kms. from Jorhat town, the district head-quarter. It is accessible by ferries from Nemati ghat in Jorhat district. It is a pollution-free fresh water, green island. According to the report of Mr. J. H. Mills in 1853, the total area of Majuli was 2,82,165 acres. But in 2001 it became 480 sq. kms. thus losing significant areas gradually year after year due to frequent erosion. From east to west Majuli is about 90 kms. in length and from north to south it is about 16 km. in width in an average. Majuli is now a world heritage site. Majuli is the crowning glory of Vaisnavite culture in Assam.
As per 2001 census, total population of Majuli is 1,53,362. It was 1,35,578 in 1991 and 35,000 in 1901. The population of Majuli is made up of Ahoms, Kacharis, Brahmins, Kalitas, Koch-Rajbongshis, Bonias, Koibartas, Naths and plains tribal folks viz. Mishing, Deori, Sonowal Kacharis, Suts, Chutias with number of Nomosudras, Nepalis, Kumars, Bengalis, Rajasthanis etc. who have colourful as well as resourceful cultural entity. Languages spoken here are Assamese, Mishing, Deori, Sonowal Kachari etc. There are 243 villages in Majuli. The people of Majuli are simple, open-hearted, having inherent spirit. Majuli has rich and colourful tribal cultural elements.
In 15th century, Assam's pioneer Vaisnavite saint Sankardeva took shelter in Majuli. He spent a couple of months at Beloguri (west Majuli) which was a place of glory for the historic and auspicious 'Manikanchan Sanjog' between Sankardeva and his disciple Madhavdeva. This was the first 'Satra' (Monastery) in Majuli. 'Satra's are the center of Satria art, culture, literature and classical studies. These are the treasure house of Borgeet, Mati akhara, Jumora dance, Chali dance, Notua dance, Nande-Vringee, Sutradhar, Ozapali, Apsara dance, Satria Krishna dance, Dasavater dance, Paalnaam, traditional Raasleela (a state festival) etc. which were mainly contributed by Shri Sankardeva, the father of Assamese culture. Thus these are the store houses of culturally important antiques and are the advanced centers of performing arts. Ancient weapons, historical monuments; old Assamese utensils, jewellery, handicrafts, books, manuscripts, paintings, statues, potteries are also being preserved in the 'Satra's.
A total of 66 'Satra's were grown up for propagation of ethics and socio-cultural ideals at ancient period. At present there are 22 'Satra's in Majuli. Due to devastation of flood and strong erosion many of them have been shifted to other safer places. Now the main existing 'Satra's are Dakhinpat Satra, Garmurh Satra, Auniati Satra, Kamalabari Satra, Bengenaati Satra, Samaguri Satra etc.
Majuli is a suitable place for viewing the full sunset during winter. Majuli has its environment still protected from pollution in all climatic conditions. With water bodies covering most of the areas, Majuli attracts plenty of birds both local & migratory.
Aiming at adventure and spiritual tourism, Majuli Festival was held from 17th to 20th January 2012 at Daria ghat which is about 1.5 km. from Garmurh. Special events were being organized during the festival days round the clock. These included cultural programmes to display the rich cultural heritage of Majuli, exhibitions for the demonstration of various local products etc. etc. The festival was organised by Majuli Sub-Divisional District Administration.
I visited Majuli for the first time on 19th January 2012. I started my bus journey in the early morning at 5.20 AM from Diphu to Golaghat and next from Golaghat to Jorhat. I was accompanied by my friend Munna and. It took 40 minutes to reach the ghat. The fare was Rs. 25/- for 2 persons. After reaching the bank of the mighty Brahmaputra we had our lunch at Hotel Fast Food at the ghat side. The ferry from Nemati ghat to Kamalabari ghat started at 2.30 PM. The fare was Rs. 20/- per person. It took nearly one hour to cross the river in downstream direction. From Kamalabari ghat by means of a TATA Sumo vehicle we departed for Garmurh and reached Kakati Alohi Ghar, Garmurh at around 4.00 PM. The vehicle charged Rs. 40/- per head from us.
After this thrilling journey, we got refreshed in the hotel room and came out immediately. Took hot coffee and went to Daria ghat for the festival, by a mini bus. The festival site was on the roadside of Kamalabari to Garmurh, near the Daria bridge. The weather was cold. It was drizzling intermittently. The environment was enjoyable. Different programmes were going on. At 7.00 PM we walked back to our hotel. It took nearly half an hour from the venue to the place of our night stay.
In the next morning we walked around Garmurh. Noticed the famous Garmurh Satra and some other establishments on the way. We visited an old friend of mine Sri Tilak Baruah's residence. Met his brothers and other family members. I had a chance to talk to Tilak after a long 19 (nineteen) years duration ! Tilak is presently a lecturer in Jorhat Engineering College, Jorhat and undergoing M.Tech. at I.I.T., Kharagpur.
Thereafter we boarded a TATA Winger vehicle on the main road and went upto Phuloni Tiniali. From there, by means of a TATA Sumo vehicle we reached Jengraimukh. I purchased four books at Deori Book Stall there. Later on, having developed some kind of friendliness with us, the owner of the book shop treated us with tea and sweets. The hospitality of people of Majuli is really remarkable.
We started our return journey from Jengraimukh at 1.00 PM by ASTC rural bus service. We reached Garmurh, took the luggage from the hotel and proceed towards Kamalabari ghat by the same bus. The bus reached the ghat by 3.00 PM.
The ferry from Kamalabari ghat to Nemati ghat started its voyage at 3.30 PM. It took 2 hours to reach Nemati ghat. It had to go forward against the stream. At 5.30 PM we got down at Nemati ghat. From there by a TATA Magic vehicle we moved to Jorhat. I stayed as guest of my friend Munna at Jorhat for that night. Next day, by the Jorhat–Diphu bus I left Jorhat early in the morning and reached Diphu at 10.30 AM.

(22nd January 2012)

NB. Majuli is not a river island now (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/River_island).

পৃথিৱীৰ বৃহত্তম নদীদ্বীপ (?) মাজুলীলৈ যাবলৈ বাৰু স্থলপথ আছেনে? কিতাপে-পত্ৰই মাজুলীলৈ যাতায়াতৰ বাবে কেৱল যোৰহাটৰ নিমাতীঘাট আৰু উত্তৰ লখিমপুৰৰ পৰা যাব পৰা জলপথ দুটাৰ কথাই পোৱা যায়। আন যিকেইটা পথ আছে সেই আটাই কেইটাই জলপথ। কিন্তু মাজুলীলৈ এখন ঠাইৰে স্থলপথৰ যোগাযোগ আছে।ঠাইখন হৈছে ঢকুৱাখনা। ঢকুৱাখনাৰে কেৱল মাজুলীৰে স্থলপথৰ সংযোগ আছে। এই পথেৰে কেৱল এখন পকী 
দলঙেৰে মাজুলীৰ সংযোগ আছে। যদিও এফালে (দক্ষিণ পাৰ) বিশাল ব্ৰহ্মপুত্ৰ আৰু আনফালে (ঢকুৱাখনা) মাত্ৰ ৭০ মিটাৰ প্ৰস্থৰ খেৰকটীয়া নদী। কিন্তু এই কথাৰ উল্লেখ প্ৰায় কিতাপে-পত্ৰই পোৱা নাযায়। (১৯আগষ্ট ২০১৪)

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